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Coffin caves in Suoi Bang commune – archaeological treasure

The remote rural commune of Suoi Bang in Van Ho district, the northern mountainous province of Son La, is a popular destination for adventure and discovery tourism not only for its natural beauty but also for the mystery existence of caves full with ancient hanging coffins, with remains found to date back to 1,240 years ago.
The remote rural commune of Suoi Bang in Van Ho district, the northernmountainous province of Son La, is a popular destination for adventureand discovery tourism not only for its natural beauty but also for themystery existence of caves full with ancient hanging coffins, withremains found to date back to 1,240 years ago.

Around 80 suchcaves are located in a rocky mountain range called Ma Lang Chanh(roughly translated as Ancient Ghost Cave Mountain) by locals with thelargest number found in Na Loi village at the centre of Suoi Bang.

Communalauthorities said surveys conducted by Vietnamese archaeologists since2007 discovered some more coffin caves in nearby mountains.

Coffinsare only found in caves in dangerously high cliffs along water bodiesand facing the east. Researchers said such a location is meant toprevent other ethnic groups or beasts from damaging the coffins, andhelp preserve remains in good conditions since the mouth of caves wouldreceive much wind and sunlight.

The number of coffins variesfrom cave to cave, ranging from one to 36. The coffins were made bycutting out the inside of a tree trunk and lidded with the other half ofthe trunk, which were said to represent boats that would carry thedead’s soul to their ancestors.

Na Loi cave in Mount Cum Tay isfound to have the most number of coffins, 36, two of which still containshin bones, a rib, skulls, and four teeth, the Museum of Son Laprovince said.

Meanwhile at nearby Tang Me cave, researchersdiscovered 30 coffins with one containing one skull and several bonefragments, it added.

Coffins were hung close to the caveceiling with one end put into a rock hollow and the other placed onprops in the shape of buffalo horns.

Experts also found a number of holed shells inside some coffins, which were believed to be used to make jewelery.

However, due to time and human impacts, almost all coffins and remains inside have been damaged.

Until now, real owners of hanging coffins in Suoi Bang remain a mystery to researchers.

Basing on the above-mentioned evidence, some researchers thoughthanging coffins in Suoi Bang belonged to residents living near waterbodies and practising agriculture.

Local legend has it that inthe past, when Thai people migrated to Son La’s Moc Chau area, theyfought with Xa ethnics for land and then decided to shoot arrows tosolve the dispute. Whose arrows hit the rock slope, it meant theMountain and Land Gods allowed that ethnic group to reside.

Theystood on Mount Cam Ten (Fixing Arrows) in Muong Sang commune and firedarrows towards Suoi Bang. With beeswax-covered heads, Thai’s arrowsstuck onto the mountain while those of the Xa bounced back as theirarrows’ heads were covered with bronze. So the Xa had to leave andbefore going, they hid their ancestors’ coffins in caves high onmountains.

Another legend said such coffins contained remains of Xa people, a tribe of cannibals having a tattooing tradition.

Otherresearcher said hanging coffins might belong to ancient Dao people,arguing that the Red Dao ethnic group have been inhabiting landsurrounding the upper Da River, traversing Son La province, forgenerations. They were skilled at both making dugouts and climbingmountains.

Assoc.Prof. Dr Nguyen Lan Cuong from the VietnamInstitute of Archaeology said coffin caves in Suoi Bang embody cultural,faith and anthropological values of ancient people that need to bepreserved for further study.

The cave system was recognised as a national relic site by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism in March 2014.-VNA

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