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‘Yellow autumn' draws visitors to Mu Cang Chai

In autumn, the fields of Mu Cang Chai turn varying shades of brilliant yellow and are filled with life as ethnic Mong farmers, wearing traditional attire, harvest the abundance of ripe rice and shoulder bags of the grain home over mountains and hills and across swinging suspension bridges.
In autumn, the fields of Mu Cang Chai turn varying shades of brilliantyellow and are filled with life as ethnic Mong farmers, wearingtraditional attire, harvest the abundance of ripe rice and shoulder bagsof the grain home over mountains and hills and across swingingsuspension bridges.

Terraced fields, which rise and fall on hillsand mountainsides as well as streams and rivers, are beautiful all yearround. Visitors in March are treated to the sight of glittering ponds.Locals transplant rice seedlings from April to May. After that, allhills are covered by an everlasting green. Rice fields start to turnyellow with ripeness from early September.

"Harvest lasts fromnow to mid October. You will see the full beauty of terraced fieldsduring that time," says Vang A Doi, chairman of the De Xu Phinh CommunePeople's Committee.

Terraced rice fields are visible fromvirtually everywhere in the district as they expand over 2,200ha,including 500ha in Che Cu Nha, La Pan Tan and De Xu Phinh communes. Theterraced fields in these villages were recognised as a national heritagein 2007 by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

A trekthrough these villages offers a fabulous view inside the lives of theMong people. Young boys are often seen joyfully playing on the roadside.In the distance, huts used to provide cover as farmers watch over theirharvest dot the vista.

From Trong Tong Hamlet in La Pan Tan, terraces pour onto each other from above like yellow stairs calling people to heaven.

"AsI think about the wonder of Mu Cang Chai, I find it hard to restrain myhappiness as I take in the beauty before my eyes. In fact, this scenehas inspired me to love life and labour. I love my country more becauseof the simple things it offers," says 20-year-old Bui Xuan Giang, anadventurous traveller.

Rice fields are not only a source of foodand income for the Mong; they are an intrinsic part of their culture andof Mu Cang Chai, which is itself a quiet district on the bank of theNam River.

"If any one asks me where I plan to go this autumn, Iwill reply without hesitation that I plan on visiting Mu Cang Chai, adistrict in Yen Bai Province, some 300km north of Hanoi," says Giang.

Toreach Mu Cang Chai from Hanoi, you should follow the beautiful route ofRoad 32. Do not forget to stop at Tu Le Town in Van Chan District onharvest days to enjoy the outstanding flavour of sticky rice withchicken. In this town, local people harvest unripe rice to make greenrice flakes which have the aromatic flavour that speaks of the beginningof autumn.

At this time, some of the rice fields scattered inthe valley are turning a dark yellow which brings a sweet-scentedambience throughout the vast valley.

After leaving Tu Le, youwill follow the Khau Pha mountain pass to travel the 27km between VanChan and Mu Cang Chai. The name of the mountain pass literally means"sky's horn".

In the morning, the pass is typically hidden in a thick fog, making it impossible to see more than two metres in front of you.

"Sometimes,I have to close my eyes because of the curves. However, when I reachthe summit, where cool breezes blow throughout the year, I have a sensethat I've reached the gates of heaven and am standing on a cloud. Infact, when I stand at the top of Khau Pha pass, I can barely believe myeyes. Off in the distance, I see rooftops peeking out among tree coveredhills and yellow rice fields. The fluffy clouds swirling below me arelike a beautiful props from a fairy tale," says Giang.

Inaddition to terraced fields, Mu Cang Chai was blessed with naturallybeautiful flora and fauna and outstanding geographic features, includingvast mountain ranges with high peaks which have protected the peoplefor ages, says Doi.

With forest area covering 80,000ha,researchers have found 22 reptile species, 127 bird species and 53animal species, notably 200 individual black lemurs. There are animalreserves in Mu Cang Chai's Che Tao, De Xu Phinh and Pung Luong hamlets.

"Iused to think that Mu Cang Chai was an isolated and desolate land withethnic people living silently near the base of the mountain. However, mymind changed when I finally had the change to visit," says Giang.

Giangrecommends a stop at the Giang stream in Van Chan for a soak in thejacuzzi to relax after a long day of adventure. You can also buy somearomatic San Tuyet tea to take home as a gift for family and friends athome./.

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